Checklist

 

Final Checklist
how to read the spreadsheet


1) Before Sheetrock

2) After Sheetrock - trim

3) Before power up




Here are the checklist items before Sheetrock

  1. Before Sheetrock - test for shorted lines.

    For each Home Run, measure the ohms in the 18/5 between
       a) the Red and all other 4 wires.   It must be infinite
       b) the Green and all other wires except Red     It must be infinite
       c) the Yellow and all other wires except Red and Green It must be infinite
       d) the White and blue It must be infinite
       e) the ATX LED Home Run tester can be used to test


  2. No more than 5x  660 mA LEDs on one channel of of the DR1 or DR2.  For circuits with 6 or more bulbs, use 48v or 51v devices.

    • 51v bulbs / Fixtures require either On/Off switches or a 51v capable dimmer driver like the SRP 
    • 48v bulbs / Fixtures work best with DR2 type drivers since they operate a peak efficiency at 44 volts
    • The DR2 / DR1 is limited to 28 watts per channel and about 44 volts. 
    • The SRP driver can go to 75 watts.  

  3. No more than 96 watts of load on a home run. if you have more than 100 watts - the system will cut them off at 100 watts.  The ATX Spreadsheet has the home run assignments with the wattage for each home run.    90 watts is the recommended limit, 96 is possible but has no reserve.

    • Most products are 6 watts, except
    • Ceiling Fan light kits are 12 watts
    • Ceiling Fan Motors are 24 watts ( we suggest sharing 4 on a home run )
    • Vanity Lights are 18 or 24 watts
    • Strip lights are 1.5 watts / ft in CCT, and 3 watts / ft fixed
    • Step lights are 2 watts / ft in CCT

  4. ATX LED has 3 kinds of 3-Way switching - please note when wiring - see this link   N-WAY

    • Stairs require hardwired 3-Way to pass inspection if internet is not installed before inspection

  5. Is the low voltage panel Leviton 47605 or 49605.    If not - the PSE, HUB and Power supplies will require screws instead of the plug and play pins built into the devices.   
    Please don't use any other panel.  Wire the panel before sheetrock.  Block the entrance openings above the panel against Rotozip damage - add a wood or metal nailer at the top and bottom entrances.

  6. Insure that there is a loop of AWG 18/2 from the wall switch box to no more than 5 LEDs and back at the end of the loop to the wall switch box.  Full loop.  This allows upgrading to tunable white, and has saved a lot off time at trim - a house without this loop is not complaint with our standards.   This is a very critical requirement.

  7. Insure that the "UP" and "DOWN" cable directions are clearly and correctly marked in each ceiling box, and also marked in the wall box.   
    UP goes to the DOWN of a previous box.  UP to UP or DOWN to DOWN will result in wasted time.

  8. Large fixtures in smart homes with more than 5x E26,  or 7x  E12, require a dedicated home run of 18/2 - and a centralized SRP-2305-75 driver.   See Large Rooms
    If you use AWG 14/2 - then you can easily allow either a low voltage or a 120vac chandelier - all integrated with the full system control

  9. Insure that all wall boxes have AWG 18/5 home runs and wired back to the Leviton 47605-42 panel, from switch to switch, with no more than 16 LEDs each.  
    Rooms with more than 5 LEDs, will require 2 or more DR2 .   These will be configured for Tandem mode at Trim using the DALI configuration tool - insure that each DR2 has 5 wires to a home run.
    Tandem mode means that even if 30 lights are on 8 DR2, all will dim and be controlled in sync from any switch.

  10. Insure that all undercabinet and strip lights have a method to hide the wires at the ends of the strips.
       - if using AL-SL-51v devices - then  18/4 ( Or 18/5 ) can go to one end the to the SRP driver if the run is over 16 - run multiple 18/5 if longer than 25 ft.  
          Runs less than 14 ft can be powered by the AL-WS-DR2

       - if using P023S2 strips - then one 18/2 goes to each end ( 2 total )       The 18/2 needs to go to opposite ends of the strip.

  11. Insure that no wires have been cut by other trades  - use the AL-R@R product to validate the wiring to the lights

  12. 3-Way switching
    • "Value"  (On/Off, parallel wiring, no dimmer ) using the Home Depot 3-way ( HD3) .  Insure that each HD3  has AWG18/5 wires between them to complete the 3-Way
    • "Signature"  ( Dimming, series wired LEDs ) using AL-WS-M.   Provide a simple 2 wire ( or CAT-5e ) link from the dimmer to one or more parallel wired AL-WS-M
    • "Signature Tandem"  ( more than 5 Tunable or 10 Fixed LEDs as a group ),   The setup will be done at trim using the hub
    • "Signature MultiSwitch" - any location in the house can have a AL-WS-8B device that can be programmed to control any other DR2 using the two wire DALI bus ( yellow/white )
    • "Virtual" a AL-WS-M can be connected to any AL-WS-DR2, and then it can send on/off/dimming commands to any device anywhere in the house.
  13. Exhaust fans have a AWG 18/2 to the wall switch.    Decide of you want signature ( 12v with speed control and timers ) or Value ( 48v with on/off ) fans.
    check the auto damper on each Fan exhaust flex pipe.   If the damper does not move to fully open - the project will fail a CFM test.

  14. Carro Ceiling fans - decide on 18/9 method or 18/7 method
    a)     18/9 method:  Run a AWG 18/9 from the Fan to the Wall box, 
    b) 18/7 method:  Run a AWG 18/7 from the Fan to the Wall box,  18/3 to the LV panel shared with 4 motors
    c) two fans can share one wall switch for the light kits
    d) 4 fans can share one wall switch for speed.

  15. Spare 18/5 should be run to an outdoor box for future landscaping

  16. CAT-6 is run to the location of the internet, or a flex conduit is run to the building outside to allow any technology ( Wired, Fiber, Coax )

  17. 15 amp duplex surge protected outlet in the bottom of the Leviton box.

  18. Leviton 47605 is at least 14 inches for each 1500 sq ft of house, plus 14 inches for internet routers etc - so 28 inches total, 42 inches is better.l

  19. Door Jam contacts with standard Alarm contacts ( magnet )
    • if the DR2 switch box is on the inside of the closet of a swing type door - the alarm contact wire will be difficult to drill at trim, and recessed too far for the magnet to work if installed at rough.   Best solution is the blue box on the outside of the closet.
    • pocket doors installs at trim, DR2 on either side is OK
    • if the DR2 is on the outside - easy to install at trim at the switch level with a 3/8 hole that will be drilled straight from the door jam into the blue box.

  20. Split DR2 ( " Signature " ) a DR2 can be split into 2 drivers - this is configured at trim - this allows for example, dimming of two independent light circuits using the DR2 built in switch for one, and the AL-WS-M for the other.

  21. Please see our videos about rough in and trim.

  22. Run 18/2 or cat-5e from the low voltage panel to each exterior door - we can power you Ring doorbell from the low voltage panel

  23. Run CAT-5e to locations for cameras and wifi access points




    After Sheetrock


  24. Discuss with the Owner that the slider will be on the left - not the right - when the switches are installed, if any doubt, place the AL-WS-DR2 on the left and AL-WS-DR1 on the right

  25. Wire nuts are not required - you can trim the DR2 and lights without wire nuts

  26. Insure that the 18/5 has  Red is +51v,  Blue is -51v,  Green is the metal plate of the DR2, Yellow and White are the DA control lines.  
    Do not connect Green to the AL-WS-DR2 N-Way GND.

  27. Insure than the AL-WS-M is connect to a AL-WS-DR2 on the N-Way pins.  Do not connect it to +51v.  See house plan





    Before Power


  28. Before Powering up - after all AL-WS-DR2 are connected:   test each home run for shorted wiring 

    For each Home Run, measure the ohms in the 18/5 between
       a) the Red and all other 4 wires.   It must be infinite
       b) the Green and all other wires except Red     It must be infinite
       c) the Yellow and all other wires except Red and Green It must be infinite
       d) the White and blue It must be infinite






how to read the spreadsheet


a) each room has a line in the spreadsheet for the lights, and if necessary, another line for the fans, and a line for a multi button keypad

b) we have the products in columns, with the ATX order number at the top

A house may have a lot of 3 way switches, and keypads.  We want people to never cross an unlit room or hallway.

There are 4 kinds of DR2 based 3-way, each with a different code in the spreadsheet.  The ATX 3-Way allows dozens of control points for a set of lights, so we call it N-Way instead of 3-Way.  

For use with the AL-WS-DR1 - please use a simple rocker switch, only the hw type is supported.  For non-Dimming projects - please see the Value line.


Symbol
Example
 Meaning
How to wire
3-Way device


$
$3A
A AL-WS-M switch can be connected to any nearbt AL-WS-DR2 in the house, and programmed to operate a distant driver (DR2, SRP etc) - without a dedicated jumper.    This operation works without internet - but it is configured by the ATX Hub, after configuration, the hub can be removed from the internet.  In most cases, the N-Way input of a DR2 is unused, this method utilizes the DR2 fully
No long jumpers are needed.   A short jumper ( 6 inches ) connects a AL-WS-M to the N-Way input of a AL-WS-DR2 in the same wall box or nearby.
AL-WS-M
@
@22B
A AL-WS-8B is a multibutton switch that can be programmed by the Hub to control any driver in the project.  Once configured, internet is not required for operation.
The Yellow / White wires of the DALI bus are connected to the AL-WS-8B.  There is no need to connect to the driver itself - any DALI Bus signal in the project can be used.
AL-WS-8B

T
T1
This is tandem mode.   Up to 64 AL-WS-DR2 can be configured in Tandem mode to operate in unison with another DR2.   Operating any DR2 in the tandem group - will operate all others.  The DR2 is configured by the ATX Hub to be part of a Tandem group   
Wire each DR2 normally - prior to configuration - it will operate the attached LEDs only.  After configuration - many DR2 can be joined logically together to operate a set of lights all in sync.
AL-WS-DR2

hw
 6C
This is the use of a AL-WS-M or a simple On/Off switch hardwired between the two intended control points.    No programming is required.   Connect physically a AL-WS-M to a distant DR2, the lights attached to the DR2 can be operated from either control point.
Run a long 18/2 jumper wire from the DR2 with the LEDs attached, to a AL-WS-M anywhere else.   Many AL-WS-M can be wired in parallel for "N" number of control points.
AL-WS-M

Z
Z-8
A Z-Wave wireless remote can be used.   The association of the wireless remote and the remote is done by the ATX LED Hub.   These have for example 4 buttons and each button can be programmed for any funtion.
Insert the USB receiver into the ATX LED Hub and use the control software to associate the Z-Wave keypad to the USB receiver - then assign a function for each button.

Value

You can wire multiple SPDT or DPDT switches with ATX LED low voltage lighting
the wiring of 3-Way value products is identical to 120vac wiring.  You  can use SPDT for 2 control points, or DPDT for 3 or more control points
'Leviton'




Next there is the totals section - this calculates the total wattage, and the count of products needed, and the estimate of wire needed.    The rough in boxes and fans are shown.
     
At the bottom there is the home run section, we show how a home run can be planned for 90 watts.   Where possible - place all FAN motors on a dedicated home run - 4 motors can share one home run.



The Lights then are wired to the wall switches - we plan the home runs to follow a line and connect all the switches to the PSE devices, with a limit of 90 watts for each home run






 



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